Author Archives: seeyau2

Feral Cat Awareness

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By: Christian Yost

June 3, 20012

A feral cat is one that has had little or no human contact and is usually unapproachable by people. These felines differ from house cats who are allowed to visit the outdoor environment, as well as from those stray cats that once had owners and were abandoned or became lost. Ferals take a significant amount of time to be loving companions, if ever, but they still deserve the care and respect of humans. They have been born into or adapted to outdoor life without human contact, living together in loose families organized as colonies, and can do well in urban as well as rural areas.

If you notice feral or stray cats in your area and have decided to open your heart to help, there are several things you can do. First, contact your local and state animal control officials to learn what local laws/ordinances may apply. Remember always to spay or neuter your pet.

Source: Personal Experience  

Please visit us at ww.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Introduction to Feline Aggression

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By: Christian Yost

June 6, 2012

Types of Aggression

As with other species, there are several different ways of classifying aggression. One describes aggression as either instrumental (as a vehicle to achieve some desired goal), fear-induced, territorial, sexual, irritable, maternal or predatory. This classification is commonly employed when discussing the different types of aggression in animals and is descriptive of purpose, as opposed to function. Furthermore, it has been added to over the years to include other terms such as petting-induced aggression, pain-induced aggression, and idiopathic aggression (of unknown cause).

An alternative method of classifying aggression is into affective and predatory types. The former means with enhanced mood change, and the latter refers to the relatively unemotional business of predation, i.e. procuring prey by hunting and killing. The affective variety of aggression can be further sub-divided into offensive and defensive types, with offensive aggression involving striking out at another animal in order to achieve some “selfish” goal whereas defensive aggression is self-protective and occurs in response to some real or perceived threat.

Body Language for Offensive Aggression

  • Ears forward or sideways
  • Pupils slit like or slightly rounded
  • Body posture with the rump higher than the shoulders giving a slanting-forward impression
  • Eyes riveted on the target and head moving slightly from side to side
  • Low pitched growl
  • Tail held horizontal or vertically down with the tail tip swishing from side to side
  • Body Language for Defensive Aggression
  • Ears held flat against the head pointing backwards
  • Pupils of the eyes widely dilated
  • Piloerection – hair on the body standing up on end giving the cat a puffed up appearance, including a large bushy tail
  • Crouching body posture or arched back
  • Tail curved under or to the side
  • Open mouth threat with hissing and spitting
  • Claws unsheathed and ready for action
  • Body Language for Predatory Aggression
  • Little or no mood change except intense concentration
  • Hunting stalking behavior
  • Crouching and then springing
  • Grasping with claws and biting aggression is a natural behavior for the cat and was a survival-related behavior for the cats’ wild ancestors. Although cats have long been thought of as solitary creatures, it has recently been recognized that they can live in true societies and that some may develop as leaders or “alpha” cats. To achieve this status they must possess certain wilfulness and be physically competent.
  • Source: Personal Experience,  Google search engine, U.C. Davis Veternarian Department, comments submitted by pet lovers

Please visit us at  www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Cognitive Dysfunction in Cats

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By: Christian Yost

June 5, 2012

Many people have known old cats that have matured to the point of minimal activity, and who have lost most of their kittenish joie de vivre. That’s normal aging. Feline cognitive dysfunction (FCD), however, is a truly pathological condition represented by a constellation of behavioral signs that are abnormal, seem out of character, or are performed out of context. No one sign is absolutely diagnostic, but the insidious onset of a cluster of signs suspicious of the syndrome in an elderly cat is suggestive of the disorder. A veterinarian should be consulted if your pet is showing any of these symptoms.

What to Watch For

  • Loss of control of bladder or bowels
  • Decreased activity/playfulness
  • Increased sleeping time
  • Loss of coordination
  • Increased irritability/aggression
  • Hypervocalization (excessive crying)
  • Nocturnal separation distressIn addition, there may be other changes in normal behavior pattern, such as lack of grooming, altered sound behavior and loss of appetite.
  • Diagnosis Even if two or three of the typical clinical signs appear in an elderly cat (more than 12 years old), cognitive dysfunction cannot be definitively confirmed as the most likely explanation to the problems unless thorough examination and medical tests are performed. The diagnosis of FCD is made by ruling out other conditions that could cause similar signs:
     
  • If house soiling is a feature, your veterinarian will perform a detailed examination. This may involve laboratory tests.
  • Brain tumors need to be ruled out. This requires neurological examination, sometimes along with a computed tomographyscan (CT scan) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI).
  • Inflammatory conditions of the brain and its surrounding membranes (encephalomyelitis) as a result of viral, bacterial, or parasitic diseases. Conditions like rabies, toxoplasmosis, and brain abscesses should be ruled out by appropriate tests.
  • Hyperthyrodism must be ruled out by measuring blood thyroid hormone (T4), especially if there is increased irritability and aggression.
  • Dietary problems, especially thiamine deficiency caused by excessive raw fish in, diet may mimic the condition.
  • Kidney and liver failure must be ruled out by means of appropriate blood tests.
  • Toxicological problems, such as lead poisoning, should be considered and investigated, if necessary.
  • TreatmentIf cognitive dysfunction is the only logical explanation for the behavioral change, the next step is to implement therapy. The only treatment likely to be of any benefit is deprenyl (Anipryl®). This drug is currently only licensed for the use of cognitive dysfunction in dogs but its extra label use by veterinarians is permissible according to the
  • Animal Medical Drug Use Clarification Act (AMDUCA) of 1984. Organized studies to evaluate the efficacy of deprenyl for the treatment of FCD in cats have yet to be performed but if the results turn out to be similar to those in dogs, treatment with deprenyl would be well worth a try. Typically, a low dose of deprenyl would be given by mouth once a day and the cat’s response evaluated after 2-4 weeks. If no effect is apparent and no side effects have been seen, the dose should be gradually increased until treatment success or side effects dictate against further dose increments.A positive response to treatment – a full or partial return to earlier vigor and more typical behavior – provides justification of the clinical diagnosis, but it should be remembered that deprenyl treatment is a symptomatic treatment and will not arrest the inexorable disease process. All we do by treating elderly cats this way is to buy them and us additional quality time together – a worthwhile goal.
  • Source: Personal Experience, U.C. Davis Veternarian Department, consulting with various vets, Animal Medical Drug Use Clarification Act (AMDUCA) of 1984. Google search engine
  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Introduction to Feline Fears

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By: Christian Yost

June 4, 2012

Fear is a normal response for any animal to a fear-inducing stimulus or situation. Without a reasonable amount of fear neither cats nor humans would fare very well. As unpleasant as fear may be to experience, it keeps our animals and us safe by encouraging caution and by preparing us for fight or flight when danger threatens. Problems arise, however, if fears become so excessive and irrational that they disrupt normal functioning. At this stage, fear has crossed a definitional divide and is now better classified as phobia.

Excessive, irrational fears (or phobias) have three possible triggers:

  • Other living creatures (especially cats,dogs, and humans)
  • Inanimate cues (most often noise)
  • Certain situations, such as being left alone or visiting the vet’s office
  • Development of Fears/Phobias Nature and nurture interact to produce excessive fearfulness.
  • The natural component is the innate hard-wiring that acquires and processes fears. Specifically, it involves neural pathways in the brain to a structure called the amygdala, where fearful stimuli are processed and then relayed to emotion centers in the limbic system. The natural tendency to acquire fears can be exaggerated in individual cats, families of cats, or whole breeds of cats.While nature provides the substrate necessary for fear, learning is key. Without learning, fears do not arise in the first place.Fears can be acquired suddenly and cataclysmically when an extremely traumatic event polarized a negative learning experience. This can be thought of as a variation on the post-traumatic shock (PTS)  theme. From the time of the negative experience onwards, the fear-inducing stimulus will be avoided or repulsed at all costs. Permanent learning of this type is facilitated by the release of a fight or flight neurotransmitter, called norepinephrine.Another way in which fears develop is more slowly over time. In such instances, fears are compounded by repeated exposure to the instigating cause. Over time, the fear gets worse. Once acquired, fear learning will fade if not reinforced – but it never completely disappears and can be rekindled quickly when circumstances dictate. Fortunately, it is often possible to reduce fearful perceptions and fearful responding by superimposing new learning that masks an older negative association.
  • Learning What to Fear The “sensitive period” of learning (about many lifelong perceptions) occurs between two and seven weeks of age in cats. During the early part of this period, fearless kittens bravely go where older cats fear to tread. But, as the sensitive period rolls on, a certain caution or tentativeness emerges in our young heroes. This is a necessary development if kittens are to stay out of harms way. The more driven a kitten becomes to explore his environment, the more essential a dose of apprehension and caution are to his continued safety.It is adaptive for a growing to associate fear with people who are yelling or gesturing wildly. It is good for the youngster to become frightened by the loud noise and commotion of a busy highway. And it is good for the kitten to learn to avoid experiences that cause him to feel pain or discomfort. It is not so good when these fears become exaggerated, generalized, or misdirected, so that, for example, all strangers generate a powerful fear response from the cat or all visits to the vet’s office wind up nightmarish
  • Avoidance of Excessive Fearfulness Many fearful cats have fears that could have been avoided. The most critical time to guard against negative events is during the early part of a kitten’s life, notably the latter part of the sensitive period. Throughout this stage, it is imperative for kittens to be raised in a warm, friendly environment and to be introduced to a variety of people and other animals without having any bad experiences, such as prolonged social deprivation or punishment. Conscientiously shielding a young kitten from adversity will ensure a confident well-adjusted adult.A kitten raised without human contact or who has had bad interactions with people during the first seven weeks of his life will never be entirely comfortable around people and will most likely be afraid around strangers. Adverse experiences may also cause profound and long-lasting fears later in life, but the ante goes up. That is, it takes more of a challenge to produce the same long-lasting fearful result. The susceptibility of older cats to acquiring fear varies with their behavioral experience. A properly raised, fully socialized cat will be much less likely to interpret occasional unfortunate experiences as the “rule” and more likely to interpret such events as exceptions.
  • Common Expressions of Fear
    Fear of Animate Cues. Cats that are frightened of people and other cats have usually been under socialized or have had bad experiences with people or other cats. Aggression, running away, and hiding are common signs of fear of living cues. Enlarged pupils, body hair raised, large bushy tail, and inappropriate elimination (urine or feces) are also seen.
  • Inanimate Fears. Fear of noises – demonstrated by hiding, signs of high arousal, and hunkered, cowering postures.
  • Fear of Situations. These can be divided into fear of cat carrier, car travel, and visiting the veterinarian’s office, and fear of separation. Fear of the carrier, travel and vet office often go “hand in glove” and represent a learning process known as back-chaining. The latter is a process by which learning experiences become linked together so that one heralds the next, and so on. When the cat experiences pain at the vet’s office, he associates the location and veterinary personnel with unpleasant consequences. The cat then associates car travel with a visit to the vet’s office. Next, he realizes that being put in the crate means a possible trip in the car – which might possibly culminate at the vet’s office – which might conceivably result in pain.
  • Separation anxiety. This occurs when a cat that is closely bonded to his human companion (or sometimes feline companion) becomes distraught when separated from them. Signs include: crying out when left alone, house soiling, and lack of appetite. Some cats may even pull out clumps of their own hair and most greet their owner’s over-exuberantly on their return home.
  • Source: Personal Experience, U.C. Davis Veternarian Department, cosulting personal veternarians, Google search engine, comments by cat lovers
  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Compulsive Reproductive Behavior

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By: Christian Yost

June 4, 2012

Living in confined areas and lacking the chance to perform the full range of normal behaviors, some cats develop compulsive behaviors related to natural sexual/reproductive behaviors. Sexual compulsions may arise in neutered and intact cats, in males and in females. Masturbation, copulation with objects or human limbs, and attempts to copulate with unreceptive pets in the household (male or female) are sexual behaviors that may sometimes achieve compulsive proportions.

In the wild, male cats in rut will sometimes copulate with other males when females are not accessible. Females may also attempt to copulate with other females in the absence of males. This is thought to represent an overflowing of sexual activity under conditions of extreme frustration. Neutered cats that repetitively engage in misdirected sexual behaviors may be exhibiting a compulsive disorder.

Signs

Sexual compulsions usually take the form of masturbation and copulation with objects and/or human limbs. Masturbation involving the use of inanimate objects is presumed to represent a manifestation of misdirected sexual drive. It is possible that cats that “hump” inanimate objects or people may be showing an effect of erroneous sexual imprinting. This may occur if humans are the only subjects available for the cat to focus his or her attention on during a sexual imprinting period. Cats that have been sexually imprinted on humans, will show a preference for mounting human limbs even when sexually receptive felines are accessible.

Another behavior problem related to sexual/reproductive behavior is pseudo-pregnancy in queens. Queens showing pseudo-pregnancy may exhibit the following behaviors, even though they have not conceived: nesting behavior, adopting an object (toy, garment, shoe, etc.), and direct maternal behavior towards that object. These behaviors may be accompanied by physical signs of a “ghost” pregnancy, such as swollen mammary glands, pseudo-parturition, and lactation.

Treatment

If the cat showing excess sexual behavior is intact and is not going to be bred, spaying or neutering the cat, if an option, will usually solve the problem.

If a cat intended for breeding has sexually imprinted on humans, the prognosis is poor, but shaping may help focus the cat’s attention in a more natural direction. In such cases, the cat should be rewarded for displays of sexual behavior close to other cats, as opposed to humans.

If a cat that has been neutered/spayed displays a misdirected sexual compulsion, getting a cat of the opposite sex may help refocus the cat’s attention. In most cases, the new cat will provide an interest if not an outlet for the misbehaving cat’s sexual behavior. If this tactic fails, a combination of environmental enrichment plus anti-obsessional medication may provide some respite from the behavior.

ovarian hysterectomy (spay) is recommended for queens that repeatedly show signs of pseudo-pregnancy.

Pharmacological Intervention

Clomipramine is a serotonin re-uptake inhibitor that can be used to treat sexual compulsive behaviors. A latent period of up to 4 to 6 weeks should be anticipated for this medication to produce appreciable effects. Treatment should be continued until symptoms disappear. Length of treatment varies between individuals, ranging from 2 months to long-term (lifetime). A gradual weaning off regimen (over 2 to 3 weeks) should be used at the conclusion of treatment. Possible side effects include reduced appetite, sedation, social withdrawal, and urinary retention. If unacceptable side effects do occur, the dose of medication should be decreased for a while and later increased as tolerance develops. In some obdurate cases, an alternative treatment may have to be sought.

Fluoxetine is another anti- antidepressant drug that can be used to treat sexual compulsions. The latent period is up to 4 to 6 weeks and treatment varies between individual cases, ranging from 2 months to long-term (lifetime). A tapering dose schedule should be used at the conclusion of treatment. Possible side effects include restlessness and reduced appetite. If side effects are observed, the dose should be triturated to minimize such effects until tolerance develops. Alternatively, the medication can be discontinued.

Treatment with progestins can alleviate sexual compulsive behaviors. However, long-term use of progestins is associated with serious systemic complications, such as hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease), diabetes mellitus, mammary hyperplasia or even cancer, and endometritis or endometrial hyperplasia. Therefore, treatment with serotonin re-uptake inhibitors is preferential, if they are effective.

Resource: Personal Experience,comments submitted by various cat lovers,consulting personal veterinarians, Google search engine

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Compulsive Behavior

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By: Christian Yost

June 4, 2012

Feline compulsive behaviors are based on natural behaviors that are somehow frustrated by management practices and/or restrictive environments. Compulsive behaviors may initially be expressed as displacement behaviors. For example, when a cat is torn between responding with aggression or running away, it may displace into a seemingly unrelated behavior, such as self-grooming, as a way of reducing emotional tension. If exposure to the anxiety-provoking stimulus continues, the cat may express the behavior repetitively and, finally, out of context.

In the end-stage condition, even when the behavior has adverse consequences for the cat (i.e. pain), it will continue to engage in the behavior. The level of stimulation required to trigger the behavior decreases over time so that the behavior occurs in response to any level of arousal. Certain breeds seem prone to compulsive disorders, so genetic influences are likely involved.

Genetics may determine which individuals display compulsive behaviors and what those compulsions are.

The most common compulsive behaviors exhibited by cats include wool sucking (or fabric eating), over-grooming/hair-barbering or hair-pulling (psychogenic alopecia), and feline hyperesthesia. Oral behaviors such as wool sucking and psychogenic alopecia are the most prevalent feline compulsive disorders.

Source:Personal Experience,comments submitted by pet lovers,consulting personal veterinarians, Google search engine

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Introduction to Feline Fears

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By: Christian Yost

June 4, 2012

Fear is a normal response for any animal to a fear-inducing stimulus or situation. Without a reasonable amount of fear neither cats nor humans would fare very well. As unpleasant as fear may be to experience, it keeps our animals and us safe by encouraging caution and by preparing us for fight or flight when danger threatens. Problems arise, however, if fears become so excessive and irrational that they disrupt normal functioning. At this stage, fear has crossed a definitional divide and is now better classed as phobia.

Excessive, irrational fears (or phobias) have three possible triggers:

  • Other living creatures (especially cats, dogs, and humans)
  • Inanimate cues (most often noise)
  • Certain situations, such as being left alone or visiting the vet’s office.
  • Development of Fears/Phobias
  • Nature and nurture interact to produce excessive fearfulness.
  • The natural component is the innate hard-wiring that acquires and processes fears. Specifically, it involves neural pathways in the brain to a structure called the amygdala, where fearful stimuli are processed and then relayed to emotion centers in the limbic system. The natural tendency to acquire fears can be exaggerated in individual cats, families of cats, or whole breeds of cats.While nature provides the substrate necessary for fear, learning is key. Without learning, fears do not arise in the first place.Fears can be acquired suddenly and cataclysmically when an extremely traumatic event polarizes a negative learning experience. This can be thought of as a variation on the post-traumatic shock theme. From the time of the negative experience onwards, the fear-inducing stimulus will be avoided or repulsed at all costs. Permanent learning of this type is facilitated by the release of a fight or flight neurotransmitter, called norephrenephrine.Another way in which fears develop is more slowly over time. In such instances, fears are compounded by repeated exposure to the instigating cause. Over time, the fear gets worse.Once acquired, fear learning will fade if not reinforced – but it never completely disappears and can be rekindled quickly when circumstances dictate. Fortunately, it is often possible to reduce fearful perceptions and fearful responding by superimposing new learning that masks an older negative association.
  • Learning What to Fear The “sensitive period” of learning (about many lifelong perceptions) occurs between two and seven weeks of age in cats. During the early part of this period, fearless kittens bravely go where older cats fear to tread. But, as the sensitive period rolls on, a certain caution or tentativeness emerges in our young heroes. This is a necessary development if  kittens are to stay out of harms way. The more driven a kitten becomes to explore his enviroment, the more essentail a dose of apprehension and caution are to his continued safety.

    It is adaptive for a growing kitten to associate fear with people who are yelling or gesturing wildly. It is good for the youngster to become frightened by the loud noise and commotion of a busy highway. And it is good for the kitten to learn to avoid experiences that cause him to feel pain or discomfort. It is not so good when these fears become exaggerated, generalized, or misdirected, so that, for example, all strangers generate a powerful fear response from the cat or all visits to the vet’s office wind up nightmarish.

    Avoidance of Excessive Fearfulness

    Many fearful cats have fears that could have been avoided. The most critical time to guard against negative events is during the early part of a kitten’s life, notably the latter part of the sensitive period. Throughout this stage, it is imperative for kittens to be raised in a warm, friendly environment and to be introduced to a variety of people and other animals without having any bad experiences, such as prolonged social deprivation or punishment. Conscientiously shielding a young kitten from adversity will ensure a confident well-adjusted adult.

    A kitten raised without human contact or who has had bad interactions with people during the first seven weeks of his life will never be entirely comfortable around people and will most likely be afraid around strangers. Adverse experiences may also cause profound and long-lasting fears later in life, but the ante goes up. That is, it takes more of a challenge to produce the same long-lasting fearful result. The susceptibility of older cats to acquiring fear varies with their behavioral experience. A properly raised, fully socialized cat will be much less likely to interpret occasional unfortunate experiences as the “rule” and more likely to interpret such events as exceptions.

    Common Expressions of Fear

    Fear of Animate Cues. Cats that are frightened of people and other cats have usually been under socialized or have had bad experiences with people or other cats. Aggression, running away, and hiding are common signs of fear of living cues. Enlarged pupils, body hair raised, large bushy tail, and inappropriate elimination (urine or feces) are also seen. A great product I found for urnine odor removal in my home is sco10x and can be found at www.sco10x.com
  • Inanimate Fears. Fear of noises – demonstrated by hiding, signs of high arousal, and hunkered, cowering postures.
  • Fear of Situations. These can be divided into fear of cat carrier, car travel, and visiting the veterinarian’s office, and fear of separation. Fear of the carrier, travel and vet office often go “hand in glove” and represent a learning process known as back-chaining. The latter is a process by which learning experiences become linked together so that one heralds the next, and so on. When the cat experiences pain at the vet’s office, he associates the location and veterinary personnel with unpleasant consequences. The cat then associates car travel with a visit to the vet’s office. Next, he realizes that being put in the crate means a possible trip in the car – which might possibly culminate at the vet’s office – which might conceivably result in pain.
  • Separation anxiety. This occurs when a cat that is closely bonded to his human companion (or sometimes feline companion) becomes distraught when separated from them. Signs include: crying out when left alone, house soiling, and lack of appetite. Some cats may even pull out clumps of their own hair and most greet their owner’s over-exuberantly on their return  home.
  • Be able to control the fear-inducing stimulus so that it can be presented at low, incrementally increasing levels of exposure (e.g. for fear of strangers – a volunteer fear-inducing stranger who will agree to present himself/herself at varying distances).
  • Test the fear-inducing stimulus to make sure that it does, in fact, produce the fearful response. Then wait a few days before commencing the program.
  • Present the offending stimulus at a low-level of intensity.
  • Gradually increase the challenge by decreasing the distance between the cat and the feared stimulus, by increasing the volume of a sound recording, or by adding new dimensions to the fearful situation.
  • Do not advance consecutively through such a program of desensitization; instead proceed in a random fashion. As long as the cat remains calm, for instance, expose the cat to a stranger at 20 feet, then 12 feet then 20 feet, then 8 feet, and so on.Though the distance may vary in either direction between sessions, over time there should always be a progression (i.e. in the example above, the stranger is being accepted at progressively closer distances).If a problem occurs at any stage of the program, return to an earlier stage of the retraining process, always finishing a training session on a positive note. The following day the session can be reinitiated at a low-level of exposure, which is subsequently increased to, and finally through, the former upper limit of acceptance. Training should preferably be conducted every day, however, training sessions 2 to 3 times weekly sometimes suffice. Desensitization is usually performed in conjunction with counterconditioning (with cats, this almost always involves using delicious food to change the cat’s perception and behavior at each stage of the reintroduction process).
  • Global Fear The most difficult cats to treat are those with “global” fear, meaning simultaneous fear of multiple cues; animate, inanimate, and situational. Cats of this disposition are almost impossible to desensitize to the multiple stimuli that trigger their fear. They are the “Nervous Nellies” of the feline world and are probably best treated medically to alleviate the impact of negative experiences that pervade their world. Even these cats, that seemingly have nothing to fear except fear itself, can be brought around by means of judicious anti-anxiety medication and subsequent weaning of the medication over time. The latter process should be conducted only under the strict guidance of a veterinarian, perhaps with input from a veterinary  behavioral specialist.
  • Medical TreatmentMany anti-anxiety and anti-depressant drugs have been employed to facilitate retraining – with varying degrees of success. The best are (in order):
  • Buspirone (BuSpar®)
  • Alprazolam (Xanax®)
  • Fluoxetine (Prozac®)
  • Clomipramine (Clomicalm®)
  • Amitriptyline (Elavil®)
  • Propranolol (Inderal®)
  • Conclusion If whatever frightens your cat can be consistently represented in an attenuated, non-threatening way, gradual reversal of the fear will result. The principle is similar to that involved in homeopathy – that of treating a condition by administering small carefully gauged quantities of things that excite the symptoms. Behavioral medicines can be helpful in ameliorating entrenched fears and fears that are “global” in proportions. Finally, there is a very good chance of rehabilitating cats with excessive fearfulness, especially if the fear can be clearly identified, is discrete, and can be easily isolated and controlled.
  • Source:Personal Experience,comments submitted by pet lovers,U.C. Davis Veternarian Department,consulting with personal veternarians, Google search engine

Some Helpful Hints on Feline Behavior

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By: Christian Yost

June 4, 2012

Cats have finally surpassed dogs in the race for America’s number one pet. It’s easy to see why in a fast-paced society like ours. Cats are more independent, do better when left alone and require less time-consuming care, e.g. daily walks. But like their canine counterparts, domestic cats come with their own set of natural feline behaviors that can confuse and inconvenience owners.

The most common cat owner complaints have to do with litter box habits, clawing furniture, and aggression toward other cats or people. Fortunately, most of these problems stem from normal feline behaviors and can be prevented or resolved. A little patience and enough understanding to allow you to see the situation from your cat’s point of view can foster a long, loving life with your feline friend.

Good Litter Box Habits

Cats are generally fastidious creatures that groom themselves and bury their droppings.

You can be sure that your cat prefers his or her litter box to be clean and fresh. Dirty or otherwise objectionable litter boxes often result in house-soiling problems, as your cat seeks out other locations in which to eliminate. Both urine and feces should be scooped from the box daily — it is the urine that gives the box its strong odor — and the entire litter box should be changed weekly if coarse, clay litters are used. Since most cats prefer to eliminate in private, place the box in a location that is away from heavy foot traffic but convenient for the cat to use.

If your cat begins to have litter box mishaps, the first step is to see your veterinarian  so that she can rule out any contributing medical conditions. Once a clean bill of health is established, your veterinarian can help you in treating this behavioral problem.

Some cats will urinate outside of the litter box as a form of territorial marking. When cats mark their territory, they are essentially leaving urine calling cards for other cats. Urine marking is most often performed in a spraying posture (standing with tail upright and quivering, while urine is sprayed onto vertical surfaces) but some cats mark in a squatting posture as well. Urine marking is a normal feline behavior; lions and tigers urine mark, too. Neutering is the best way to prevent urine-marking. Neutering should be done at an early age, preferably between 5 and 7 months, or even before you take your kitten home. New surgical protocols allow the neutering procedure to be safely performed as early as 8 to 10 weeks.

Controlling Clawing

Cats have an instinctive drive to scratch and claw and this has ruined many a couch and stereo speaker and created an unnecessary market for declawing surgery. Some simple advice based on normal feline scratching behavior may be surgery. Some simple advice based on normal feline scratching behavior may help both your furniture and your cat to remain whole. I personally do not endorse cat declawing, there are many products online to help with this behavior, go to www.amazon.com  or a product called “No Scratch” and can be found online at www.drsfostersmith.com  or “Soft Paws” at www.softpaws.com

Scratching removes the sheaths, or outer layer of dead cells, from the claw. It also serves as a visual and olfactory territorial marker. Cats naturally claw trees and wood but, if not provided with an adequate surface in the house, will select their own site so, it’s best to provide a natural, desirable scratching posts — sisal rope coverings are best.  Rug coverings are pretty but not as effective.

The post can be introduced through play. The kitten or cat should be rewarded with soothing words for using it. If he uses another surface, he should receive an immediate, mild punishment such as loud hand clap or no!

Aggression

Most common type of aggressive behavior is play aggression, which is normal for the young of all mammals. For cats, play includes stalking, pouncing, and fighting. A young cat may hide in a corner and then stalk, chase and pounce on an object or person! Kittens normally play with each other, with their mother and with a variety of moving objects. If none of these are available, they will treat human arms and legs as playthings.

It’s important to teach kittens an acceptable way to play right from the beginning. If possible, take home two kittens so they can fulfill their need to play with each other. If this is not feasible, then direct the kitten to “fun” toys such as long strings (don’t let your kitten swallow it!) or ping-pong balls. This will help minimize those secret ambushes, and prevent you from becoming, in effect, a big squeaky toy. Always keep these toys, especially the ones with strings, away from your cat when you are not around to supervise.

Many people misinterpret play as a sign of serious aggression. Playful cats “attack” silently and do not typically break the skin when they bite. Seriously aggressive and potentially dangerous cats often hiss or growl and bite more severely. Using a water spray bottle to keep the cat away is sometimes helpful or smacking a newspaper on your hand. Hitting a cat is not recommended since it often causes a defensive reaction, may lead to aggression, and is inhumane.

Source: Personal Experience, comments submitted by pet lovers, personal consultation with my veterinarians.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Homemade Treats for Your Cat

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By: Christian Yost

May 30, 2012

Cat Treats and Cat Treat Recipes

The pet stores are full of cat treats. But did you know that you can make your own healthy kitty treats at home? Here are some recipes to help you find a way to your cat’s heart:

Savory Cheese Treats

  • 3/4 cup whole wheat flour
  • 3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese
  • 5 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese
  • 1/4 cup plain yogurt or sour cream
  • 1/4 cup cornmeal Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Combine cheeses and yogurt. Add flour and cornmeal. If needed, add a small amount of water to create a nice dough. Knead dough into a ball and roll to 1/4 inch. Cut into one inch sized pieces and place on greased cookie sheet. Bake for 25 minutes. Makes 2 dozen.
  • Chick N’Biscuits
  • 1 1/2 cups shredded cooked chicken
  • 1/2 cup chicken broth
  • 1 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1/3 cup cornmeal
  • 1 tablespoon soft margarine, Preheat the over to 350 F.
  • Combine chicken, broth and margarine and blend well. Add flour and cornmeal. Knead dough into a ball and roll to 1/4 inch. Cut into one-inch sized pieces and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Makes 18 cookies.
  • Crispy Liver Morsels
     1/2 cup cooked chicken livers
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 1/4 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1/4 tsp. garlic powder
  • 1/4 cup cooked carrot, mashed
  • 1 tablespoon soft margarine Preheat the oven to 325 F. Place well-done livers in a blender with 1/4 cup water. In a bowl, combine flour and margarine. Add liver mixture and carrots and knead dough into a ball. Roll dough to 1/4 inch thick and cut into one-inch sized pieces. Place cookies on a greased cookie sheet and bake at 325 F for 10 minutes. Makes 12 cookies.
  • Tuna Tidbits
  • 6 ounce can of tuna
  • 1/4 tsp garlic powder
  • 1/4 cup water drained from tuna
  • 3 T cooked egg white, chopped
  • 1/4 cup cornmeal
  • 1/2 cup whole wheat flour Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine tuna, egg white and water. Add cornmeal and flour and blend to form a dough. Knead into a ball and roll to 1/4 inch thick. Cut into one-inch sized pieces. Bake at 350 F for 20 minutes. Makes 12 cookies.
  • Source: Recipes  submitted by pet lovers
  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Dangers Lurking In Your Home

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By: Christian Yost

June 3, 2012

We always think about baby proofing our homes and protecting your baby, but what about your pets safety?   Here’s just a few tips, check to see if you have any toxic house plant’s in your home, you really would be surprised, look on the Internet, do a Google search about  toxic house plants. Also be aware of artificial houseplants, cats and kittens will chew on them and they can choke.  There is also dropping prescription medication and forgetting to look for it before your pet consumes it.   These little things can mean the loss of your pet or a very expensive trip to your veterinarian.  Something new that brought into your home is a paper shredder that is a danger to your beloved pet.  I have heard about dogs placing their tongue into the shredder or their tail  that will severely harm them.  Don’t forget  your curious cat and kitten, it could happen too them.

Just remember after using the shredder, make sure it’s turned off. Until next time have a great day, as wells as your pets, and always provide a safe place for your pets.

Source: Personal Experience, comments submitted by pet lovers,Google search engine

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com